Nowadays, the packaging of cosmetics can be described as varied. It is confusing to choose, especially some packaging that seems to have special effects. Is it really playing a role or bluffing Today, we will find out the root of the problem together with Jufu Sauce.
Dark glass bottle
There are many products that like to use dark glass bottles as packaging, especially for cosmetics brands with material barrel. This kind of brown glass bottle with small dropper is very common. Some open it with a gentle bang, like opening champagne
The role of dark glass here is to block the ultraviolet ray in sunlight and prevent photosensitive active ingredients from photolysis, which is the same as that of red wine. The wine bottle of dark glass helps to protect the tannins, resveratrol, anthocyanins and other components in red wine from photolysis. However, if the soul of red wine is not well protected in storage, the Lafite in 1982 may have to be dumped.
It is also the same in skin care products. Active ingredients are the soul of the formula. They are useless if they are photolyzed and oxidized. In particular, these material barrels, which are famous for their high efficiency, have no selling points without active substances. Even some ingredients have toxicity or sensitization after photolysis. The active ingredients of simple photolysis are listed in the previous article The Pit of Day Care. Here is a summary.
Easy to oxidize Daytime demand Strict sunscreen weakens barrier function Photoactive phototoxic ascorbic acid Ferulic acid All kinds of polyphenol retinoic acid retinol retinol ester derivative furan coumarin
I was asked why the cosmetics brand has a strong preference for tea dropper bottles. In fact, besides being useful, there are elements of civilization. After all, many years ago, doctors in Europe liked to use this dropper bottle as a container to prescribe medicine for patients.
As mentioned earlier, some dropper bottles will make a slight pop when they are opened for the first time. In fact, they are filled with inert gas to protect the active components that are easy to oxidize, usually nitrogen or argon. Components that are both light and simple to oxidize, such as high concentration vitamin C, need two layers of protection.
The above cosmetics are easy to say. Each active ingredient will be posted in a big way, but the following two are the most famous. One is a brown bottle, and the other is a black bottle. Jufu sauce and Sajje have looked at the ingredient list several times, but no obvious photosensitive active ingredient has been found (there is a vitamin C glycoside in the small black bottle, but this product is a vitamin C derivative famous for its light stability).
In view of the long history of these two products, we guess that the formula in history really needs light protection, so the packaging has always been used.
The dropper bottle is an ancient packaging. The tinted glass performs well in terms of light shielding, but it is much worse in terms of air isolation. Even if it is filled with inert gas, it can only protect the material body before opening it for the first time on the shelf. After opening, it is difficult to ensure that argon is heavier than air, which may provide a longer protection, but it will gradually become ineffective after use, This is why this kind of essence is required to be used up within a certain time after opening, and the effect cannot be guaranteed after a long time.
The biggest advantage of the vacuum pump is that it can separate the material body from the air for a long time. Every time you press the pump head, the small piston at the bottom of the bottle will move up a little, and there will be no air entering the bottle when the material body comes out. The less the material body is used, the less space there will be, so that a product does not have to worry about air entering from turning over to using up. Unlike Dropper Bottles, vacuum pump bottles are suitable for viscous materials, such as lotion, especially when the oil phase of lotion includes many easily oxidized unsaturated fats, such as tea seed oil, shea butter and so on.
Both dropper bottles and vacuum pump bottles have limitations. Vacuum pump bottles are usually made of PP raw materials because of the need for air tightness. Even if color masterbatch is added to make colored bottles, the shading effect will not be too good. There is a big ingredient in skin care products that has strong effects. Anti wrinkle, acne removal and whitening are all first-rate strength. However, people are often intolerant of strange temperament and side effects. Simple oxidation has photosensitivity and phototoxicity. Well, you should have guessed by now. It’s about retinol.
This guy, who even the formulator has to hide in a dark room where only red light is needed to equip, will oxidize when touching the air, and will be poisoned by light. The formula body of high concentration retinol can only be put in an aluminum tube to completely isolate the air and light, so as to ensure safe and useful use.
In fact, Anping, which has a strong wind in the past two years, is also something with a proper historical origin. The earliest record can be found in AD 305. The original usage of the word Ampoule is a small bottle used by Christians to preserve the blood of dead saints for ritual purposes.
Ampoules in history
I hope you are not frightened. Modern ampoules have nothing to do with historical ampoules. Ampoules in cosmetics are actually borrowed from medical supplies. In order to preserve some injection preparations and high purity drugs that must be isolated from the air, the head of the glass bottle is sealed by high-temperature melting, which can be kept for a long time without being polluted by the outside world. When it is used, the bottleneck is broken, and the drugs inside are used at one time (everyone who has seen the nursing sister dispensing drugs during the intravenous drip should have a good image).
The same principle applies to ampoules in cosmetics. The high concentration active substances that can activate the air are sealed in small ampoules, and the bottleneck is broken when using them, so that they can be used up as soon as possible. It is similar to the use of capsules.
In terms of isolating air and external pollution, ampoules are definitely the strongest. Dark ampoules can also provide light protection, which is most suitable for vitamin C ingredients, such as martiderm’s bright ampoule essence.
Now, ampoules in cosmetics are a bit abused. For example, hyaluronic acid (hyaluronic acid), which is neither afraid of light nor simple oxidation, why should it be packaged in ampoules even when the concentration is high It is really puzzling. What advantages can it bring to users in addition to application experience. Every time you use it, you have to throw away a glass bottle. The impact of the waste on the environment is also very painful.Post time: Sep-27-2022